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Sunday Edition: Cultivated meat

Ninety-five years ago, Sir Winston Churchill wrote: "We shall escape the absurdity of growing a whole chicken in order to eat the breast or wing, by growing these parts separately under a suitable medium."

Sunday Edition: Cultivated meat
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Quick bites from around the food safety arena this week


Today’s Topic: Cultivated Meat

Eight years ago, the venture capital community was all abuzz about lab-grown meat ventures. Then the money poured in.

The Good Food Institute reported that from 2021 through 2023, cultured meat and seafood companies attracted over $2.5 billion in investment. It was likely an underestimate, as money was flowing so fast that it was hard to track.

By 2023, about half of the VC capital went to a top five that included Upside Foods (formerly Memphis Meats), Believer Meats (formerly Future Meat Technologies), Wildtype, Aleph Farms, and Mosa Meat.

Sovereign wealth funds invested government money, and Tyson Foods and JBS put up profits from their cattle businesses along with traditional VC sources.

Lab-grown meat and seafood prospects were hot. 

'Escape the absurdity of growing a whole chicken'
The basic idea was to use stem cells harvested from a living animal, with slaughter claimed to be unnecessary. Instead, harvested cells would be introduced to a culture medium containing the necessary growth materials and placed in a bioreactor, aiming to produce a final product that looks and tastes similar to traditional meat.

Ninety-five years ago, when he was out of power and making an income from freelance writing, Sir Winston Churchill penned an essay titled “Fifty Years Hence,” in which he wrote:

"We shall escape the absurdity of growing a whole chicken in order to eat the breast or wing, by growing these parts separately under a suitable medium."

By 2021, the venture capital crowd was all but certain that the world Churchill predicted in 1931 was coming soon, with viable lab-grown meats reaching the market.

Startups see sudden setbacks
Just four years later, the cell-cultured meat story changed dramatically and unexpectedly, with companies announcing they would cease operations.

Cultivated pork maker Meatable, headquartered in the Netherlands, ceased operations after acquiring Uncommon Bio’s cultivated meat platform, which was meant to diversify its portfolio beyond pork and beef into lamb and chicken. The 2018 startup shut down in late 2025.

United Kingdom-based CellRev, short for CellulaREvolution, developed proprietary media additives for cell manufacturing, including cultivated meat, and announced it would shut down in late 2025 because it couldn’t meet commercial milestones in time to secure investment.

Three-year-old Netherlands-based Upstream Foods, which was to develop cultivated fish fat, starting with salmon, was also among the 2025 shutdowns because it couldn't raise the needed capital.

The closure with the biggest impact last year was clearly Believer Meats. It completed a $125 million manufacturing plant near Raleigh, NC, with high-tech bioreactors and centrifuges in a 200,000-square-foot facility that was set to become a world center for lab-grown chicken.

Believer Meats had the U.S. government's approval and was being treated as Raleigh’s proud new employer. Then, just two weeks later, Believer Meats lost a major financial backer and management could not obtain a last-ditch loan to save the company.

So, the startup, valued at $600 million in 2021, ceased operations before it produced anything, leaving behind an empty factory.

Venture capital turned cold on lab-grown meat pretty much for its own reasons. VC funds prefer short timelines, expecting massive returns within five to seven years. Market viability for cultivated meat isn’t expected now for at least another decade or maybe longer.

At the same time, biomanufacturing is proving costly, with bioreactors demanding expensive energy inputs and specialized nutrient solutions. These capital expenditures are massive.


The pros of cultivated meat

The cons of cultivated meat


Our Take
GOOD Meat sold the first cultivated meat product with regulatory approval in 2020, debuting chicken nuggets at a restaurant in Singapore. Regulatory approvals followed in the United States, Australia, New Zealand, Israel and Hong Kong for other cultivated products, including quail, salmon, and pork.

Promotional spot sales in top restaurants or grocery outlets have not been followed by anything close to broad market availability. 

This means that 13 years after Maastricht University Professor Mark Post and his team presented the world with the first cultivated burger, nothing like it is generally available in the marketplace.

That does not mean the U.S. regulatory structure is delaying or limiting opportunity in any way. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration and USDA’s Food Safety and Inspection Service (FSIS) have cleared cultivated chicken, salmon and pork products for production and domestic sale.

Five lab-grown foods were approved by the FDA and FSIS between 2023 and 2025. The companies and products with the green light are: GOOD Meat, Inc. for cultured chicken; UPSIDE Foods for cultured pork; Wildtype Inc. for cultured salmon; Mission Barns for cultured chicken; and Believer Meats for cultured chicken 

FDA even explains the delay in the availability of these products at local grocery stores. “Manufacturers are generally working on scaling up their processes to consistently produce amounts large enough to be competitively priced,” it states, promising to continue the work “as these products come closer to market.”


By the numbers

20 – The number of cultured meat companies operating worldwide

15 – The percentage of the market most likely to be held by just one company.

989,000,000 – The amount, in U.S. dollars, of venture funding going to cultivated meat development in 2021.

36,000,000 – The amount, in U.S. dollars, of venture funding going to cultivated meat development in 2025. 

48 – The percentage of the cultured meat market expected to be held by poultry products.

38.5 – The percentage of the cultured meat market expected to be held by burgers and patties.

52.5 – The percentage of cultivated meat sales expected to come through food services.

41 – The percentage of the global cultured meat market held by North America.


What it means
Not only has cultured meat not yet been a market success, but it also has likely faded from consumers’ minds since the scientific breakthrough more than a decade ago.

Widespread adoption may yet happen, but at this point it seems a little silly that, as of 2025, eight states have enacted laws banning or heavily restricting the manufacturing, sale or distribution of lab-grown meat. 

Beyond outright bans, more than 20 states have enacted strict labeling laws requiring clear, prominent labeling on alternative proteins to prevent them from being marketed or sold as conventional meat.

While not banning the product, these traditional agriculture states want to protect livestock ranchers and address consumer transparency concerns. 

Conversely, technology companies argue that such measures stifle innovation, limit consumer choice, and may face constitutional challenges regarding interstate commerce.

State legal restrictions generally fall into the categories of full bans, temporary moratoriums, or strict funding and purchasing limits. Here are some examples:

Outside of the United States, the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) has yet to approve any cell-cultured food of animal origin for sale in the European Union.

Do you have any comments, questions or suggestions for future coverage? Click here to give us your feedback. 

Dan Flynn

Dan Flynn

Veteran journalist with 15+ years covering food safety. Dan has reported for newspapers across the West and earned Associated Press recognition for deadline reporting. At FSN, he serves as Senior Editor and covers foodborne illness policy.

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